Vintage Wines – Refoksa Sat, 15 Jan 2022 23:13:06 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Vintage Wines – Refoksa 32 32 Week of 09/01/22: Vinography Sat, 15 Jan 2022 23:13:06 +0000

Hello and welcome to my weekly dig into the pile of wine samples begging to be tasted. I’m happy to bring you the latest episode of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the best bottles that have come through my door recently.

Last week an interesting set of wines from Spain and Italy were brought to my kitchen table, along with an absolutely outstanding Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.

Let’s start with three wines that I have been particularly looking forward to receiving recently. The Parés Baltà estate, in the Spanish region of Penedes (Cava), produces extremely moving wines from biodynamic and organic farming. The wines are made by two young sisters-in-law, while the estate is run by their husbands and other members of the Cusiné family, who trace their winemaking heritage to the region since 1790. I love the deeply mineral expressions of the Xarel-lo and their “Cosmic” blend of Xarel-lo and Sauvignon Blanc, and “Indigena” Grenache basically explode out of the glass with incredible aromas. If you haven’t had any wines from these folks, I recommend you seek them out. They are not that expensive, but can be hard to find.

I’ve written before about the wines of Abel Mendoza, who makes very clean natural wines (no sulfur added) deliberately outside the Rioja classification. Mendoza ages its wines in French oak barrels and for shorter periods of time than necessary for them to be labeled as Rioja Blanca, and it chooses to make single-varietal wines labeled as such. I tasted three more of his whites this week and found each to be delicious and compelling.

The folks at Château Moulin-à-Vent have been making a big push to sell in the US lately. Originally named Château des Thorins, with a history of making fine Gamays dating back to 1732, the estate was renamed Château Moulin-à-Vent (after the nearby windmill) in 1924. The Moulin-à-Vent region du Beaujolais obtained AOC status in 1936 with the same namesake. This week I tasted a pair of wines that the estate sent for side-by-side tasting, the 2019 vintage and the 2009 vintage from their main Gamay bottling. They were clearly the same wine from the same place, but at very different times in their lives. The older wine had a slightly stinky nose, but resolved beautifully on the palate, remaining quite appealing in its old age. The younger wine was pretty and refined, and likely to appeal to more people.

The Bolgheri region of Tuscany rose to fame in the 1990s (and the rest) thanks to Sassicaia and a number of other high-level Bordeaux-style blends that are made in the gravelly soils sloping down to the Ligurian Sea to the south. from the city of Livorno. After Sassicaia was “discovered”, the prices of vineyards and the wines they produce skyrocketed in a region that had previously been charming and rustic. But there was a good reason for that. The warm weather and stony, well-drained soils provide the opportunity to make wines of great power and finesse, as many have proven. The Tenuta Argentiera was created in 1999 and replanted in 2000, incorporating the Tenuta di Donoratico estate which existed before and had existed for a long time. The estate sent me three wines to try recently – their two flagship reds and a less expensive red, all of which are worth seeking out.

While the quality of the wines was quite high this week, with a significant deliciousness quotient, the highlight of the week by far was Spottswoode’s latest Cabernet Sauvignon release. One of my favorite estates in Napa Valley, Spottswoode makes $230 Cabernets that easily rival the valley’s $800 Cabernets. Even though they are significantly cheaper than their peers, I still can’t afford to buy the wines myself, but that doesn’t stop me from loving them. The 2018 that hit the market recently is perhaps one of the finest bottles this estate has ever produced. Balanced, energetic, balanced and powerful (without being sweet, overly rich or overripe) is what happens when Napa Cabernet becomes chic. If you are part of that small segment of wine drinkers or collectors who buy wines in this price range, I recommend that you delve into this vintage of Spottswoode. It will improve for a few decades and last a little longer than that. Youza.

Tasting notes

2020 Parés Baltà “Calcari” Xarel-lo, Penedes, Spain
Pale yellow gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon peel, yellow plums and damp blackboard. On the palate, electrically bright candied lemon flavors are welded to an incredibly stony and deep minerality that is breathtaking. Slight saline notes linger on the finish. Fantastic acidity, and just a wonderful, electrically brilliant quality to the wine. 12% alcohol. Closed with a screw cap. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $21. click to buy.

2020 Parés Baltà “Cosmic” White Blend, Penedes, Spain
Pale golden yellow in color, this wine smells of crushed stone, lemon peel and green apple. On the palate, green apple, lemon and wet pavement have a fantastic stony core. Excellent acidity and a nice light tannic texture complete the wine. Hugely refreshing and crunchy. A blend of 85% Xarel-lo and 15% Sauvignon Blanc. 14.1% alcohol. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $21. click to buy.

2020 Abel Mendoza Malvasia, Rioja, Spain
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of lemongrass, citrus pith and damp blackboard. On the palate, beautifully saline flavors of lemon pith, grapefruit and wet blackboard have fantastic acidity and a deeply wet blackboard minerality that lingers with chalk in the mouth as the wine ends clean, crisp and with just a hint of oak vanilla. . 14% alcohol. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $50.

2020 Abel Mendoza Grenache Blanc, Rioja, Spain
Clear greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of pear, apricot and starfruit with a hint of bruised apple. On the palate, slightly saline flavors of peach, pear and yellow plum have a lovely silky texture and excellent crisp acidity. Complex and rich, but not overpowering, it’s delicious on the palate. 13.5% alcohol. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $50.

2020 Abel Mendoza Viura, Rioja, Spain
Pale greenish-gold in color, this wine smells of grapefruit pith and a hint of new oak. On the palate, silky flavors of yellow plum, lemon curd and oak vanilla have a nice rich weight as well as a bright saltiness. Excellent acidity. 14.5% alcohol. Note: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $50.

2019 Grenache “Indigena” Parés Baltà, Penedes, Spain
Light to medium ruby ​​in the glass with just a hint of purple, this wine smells of aromatic herbs and berries. On the palate, the bright flavors of strawberry jam and huckleberry are cut through by very disarming floral and herbaceous flavors, and a wonderful scent of thyme lingers on the finish, with a piney tang. Fantastic acidity and barely perceptible tannins. A wine that is sure to turn heads. Extremely delicious. I recommend serving slightly chilled. 14.3% alcohol. Note: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $20. click to buy.

2019 Chateau du Moulin-a-Vent Moulin-a-Vent, Beajolais, Burgundy, France
Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of saddle leather, dried herbs and berries. On the palate, the bright blackberry and herbal flavors have a slightly fleshy quality with hints of flowers. Excellent acidity and slightly muscular tannins. 13% alcohol. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $40. click to buy.

2009 Moulin-à-Vent Castle Moulin-à-Vent, Beajolais, Burgundy, France
A cloudy dark ruby ​​in the glass, this wine smells of horse sweat and saddle leather and dried herbs. On the palate, lovely flavors of dried berries, undergrowth and dried herbs mingle with a very nice umami quality somewhere between dashi and bone broth. Not as funky on the palate as one would expect given its initial aromas. Nice acidity, very light tannins. 13.5% alcohol. Note: approx. 9.

2019 Tenuta Argentiera “Villa Donoratico” Bolgheri Rosso, Tuscany, Italy
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and vanilla. On the palate, black cherry dances on the verge of being overripe, with hints of raisins in the mix, as well as cola, cocoa powder and vanilla. Unctuous, with fine, relatively restrained tannins and excellent acidity. A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot aged in a mixture of large and small barrels. 14.5% alcohol. Note: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $42. click to buy.

2018 Tenuta Argentiera “Argentiera” Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of dark cherries and cocoa powder. On the palate, black cherry, cocoa powder, cola, and dried herbs have a lively, crisp acidity that brings more sour flavors of plum skin into the mix. Light, flaky tannins stiffen on the palate, giving the wine an athletic, muscular quality. Notes of licorice root and bitter chocolate linger on the finish. A blend of 40% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc that ages in 50% new French oak barrels for 14.5% alcohol. Note: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $90. click to buy.

2019 Tenuta Argentiera “Poggio ai Ginepri” Bolgheri Rosso, Tuscany, Italy
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of chopped green herbs, cherries and blackberries. On the palate, lively blackberry and dark cherry flavors have a lovely herbaceous, juicy luminosity with excellent acidity. Notes of dried and fresh herbs, as well as licorice and black cherry linger on the finish with just a hint of salinity. Light tannins, mastic. Delicious. Blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Half of the wine is aged in oak barrels, the other half in steel. 14.5% alcohol. Note: approx. 9. Cost: $25. click to buy.

2018 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa, CA
Inky, opaque garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries, earth and flowers. On the palate, gorgeous black cherries, plums, violets and dried herbs have an incredibly lively freshness thanks to exceptional acidity. Gorgeous earthy, carob and licorice root notes linger with cola nuts on the finish. Supple, muscular tannins, but of impeccable finesse, flow through the wine like a sheet of satin stretched over a curved material. Striking and fabulous. 13.8% alcohol. Note: between 9.5 and ten. Cost: $235. click to buy.

The DO Terra Alta makes orange wine official Fri, 14 Jan 2022 09:00:40 +0000

At the final board meeting of 2021 for the regulatory board of DO Terra Alta, in Catalonia, Spain, a long list of changes was approved.

The most striking was the implementation of a very strict certification system for 100% Garnetxa Blanca since it is their flagship grape variety. But perhaps the most interesting element is a little further down the list that allows the certification of a type of wines called in Catalan “broken wines”.

The name refers to the white wines which are produced in contact with the “broken” or, the skins, stems and pips of grapes. This is a method of wine production that has gained prominence and popularity in recent years and is more commonly known internationally as ‘amber/orange wine’.

Via wine bars and especially restaurants, the style was seen more due to its gastronomic pairing capabilities and heavier weight. Although it seems like a modern trend, it has actually been produced historically in countless regions such as Georgia, Armenia, parts of Slovenia, and others. Terra Alta has been producing this style of wine for as long as anyone can remember, but in general the wines are lighter than what many others are producing.

As Núria Altés, co-owner of the winery, Herència Altés, told Decanter: “The people of the region have always drunk wine made in this style. People were actually more used to it than to the current style. It was much simpler to produce because you put everything in the tank to ferment together.

But the brisat style fell out of fashion in most parts of the world because it was often rightly considered more rustic and tannic. Since the inclusion of the skins allowed many faults to be hidden, it was also not always the best wine from a given cellar.

With only half a dozen wines produced in this style in Terra Alta, however, one wonders why they chose to include it now in their official statutes given that it seems to be a very small part of their overall production. .

DO President Joan Arrufí told Decanter: “We have many more wines that will be released soon because many winemakers have returned to these wines, but this time using modern winemaking techniques, allowing traditional “brisats” but with more finesse and compatibility with current tastes. We wanted to include it in this revision of the plc (statutes) in order to reflect this history of our region as well as its evolution, and also because it is clear to us that the wine-loving public is more and more interested in these wines.

Once the new version of their statutes is fully approved (scheduled for mid-2022), any wine that can show traceability to the regulations will be allowed to be certified, regardless of vintage. The same will apply to 100% Garnatxa Blanca wines. And how they hold 1/3 of all the vineyard of this grape variety in the world, it is also the standard base for “brisat” wines.

In addition, it will make DO Terra Alta the first DO in all of Spain to have legal certification for this style of wine. Arrufí and others within the DO can’t say for sure, but they believe they could be the first regulatory designation in all of Europe to do so as well.

While reaction to the more orange wine segment can sometimes be controversial due to the widely varying strengths of the resulting wines, the fact that a DO shows a willingness to introduce legal certification speaks to their belief that they are is a market segment with growth potential. .

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This LA sommelier recommends bottles and delivers wine to your doorstep Tue, 11 Jan 2022 23:20:00 +0000

The Angelenos’ level of access to natural wine has increased dramatically over the past two years. Natural wine bars and shops continue to proliferate in Los Angeles, with recent openings such as Only the Wild Ones, Voodoo Vin, and Vinovore Eagle Rock joining the city’s ever-growing list, while places like Lolo and Melody are emerged from the pandemic as popular hangouts centered around playful wine menus. In October, Governor Gavin Newsom enacted Senate Bill 389, allowing restaurants to serve wine, beer, and cocktails on the go with food until 2026.

An obvious advantage of wine delivery is that instead of having to go out to buy a bottle, the wine can come to you, as in the case of Little Lands, a natural wine delivery service that operates from a white european style transport van. decorated with hand painted vintage stamps. Its owner is Brion Brionson, an industry veteran who draws on his 20 years of wine experience at restaurants like Barbrix, Botanica and All Time to deliver sommelier-like service in street edge.

“Because there is only me, there is no filter. It’s just about the most unlimited access to my psyche and the way I interact with the world and with wine, ”says Brionson. Brionson has long, dark curly hair and a knack for colorful Japanese streetwear; her fiery energy contributes to her accessible nature. Instead of looking like a tailored beverage manager in a fine dining restaurant, he’s got more of a quirky wine nerd vibe with a stash of bottles in his backseat he’s happy to tell you about.

Wines from the Little Lands wine truck.
Small lands

Brionson holds a specific license from the Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control, known as the Limited Off-Sale Wine License, which allows him to sell wine directly to consumers online and over the phone, as opposed to an open retail outlet. to the public. Customers of Little Lands – which launched in December 2020 – can place orders for specific bottles to be delivered via SMS, DM, and through the website, or they can simply request the presence of Brionson and his van. “And then I’ll review, they’ll meet me in the van and review what’s on board,” he explains. All of her stuff has come by word of mouth or Instagram, and many of her customers have found Little Lands after spotting the van.

Little Lands takes its name from the ephemeral commune that existed in Tujunga, where Brionson lived with his family, in the early 1900s. He was also known by his Spanish name, Los Terrenitos. When he first came up with the idea several months after the start of the pandemic, the original plan was to serve those in his immediate vicinity in the Crescenta Valley. The area is more of a bedroom community with chain restaurants and fast food restaurants, but there aren’t many natural wine stores. In order to generate enough volume to sustain itself, it expanded its service throughout Northeast LA and beyond. Most of Little Lands’ patrons live in Altadena, Pasadena, Eagle Rock, and Glassell Park, and Brionson has also found his way into other neighborhoods where there is no dedicated natural wine source, such as Laurel Canyon.

For people who live in the Eastside of LA, orders placed before 12:30 p.m. can be delivered the same day, while people at the Westside are serviced once a week on Little Land’s “Town Day”. One of the perks of being a one-man roving operation is the flexibility, and Brionson has traveled all the way to Malibu to deliver wine. It can also ship. So if someone in Venice wanted just one bottle they would probably send it in the mail, but if they wanted the van experience and were looking to buy wine for a party, they would figure out how to make it work. .

Backlit white wine bottle to make it sparkle.

Bottle of Litrozzo wine at sunset from Little Lands.
Small lands

A bottle of red wine on a table.

Bottle of Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2018.
Small lands

Little Lands primarily sells white, red, rosé, skin contact and sparkling European wines. Due to the modest and personal nature of the business, Brionson’s ever-evolving offering is a representation of the wines he loves, the producers he trusts and the bottles he can get his hands on in the market. competitive Los Angeles. Marlet. He stocks a few bottles of Californian and Australian winemakers, but says he has always been drawn to France because it was French wine that fascinated him early in his career. Everything it carries is considered natural, or in its own words, made “without chemical additives, sugars or additional yeast”, due to its interest in preserving the history of wine made on a small scale by winegrowers with a background. agriculture.

Brionson argues that prior to the 1980s, when the use of additives in wine became more popular, all wine was natural wine. (“Due to the growing demand for natural wine, much of what is available is faulty or bad wine that would never have been marketed before,” he says.) Little Lands is a way for him to put showcasing the wines he likes and feels good to drink.

What Little Lands has to offer in the vast sea of ​​wine-buying experiences in Los Angeles is a miniature boutique on wheels. Calling on Brionson is a simple and intimate way to buy and experience wine without leaving home. One of his regulars, Ryan James, says Little Lands helped give him and his wife a sense of normalcy as they went through their first year of parenthood in a pandemic: “When we started to train us to sleep, Little Lands was there to help us. through a brutal weekend with a bottle of 2018 La Grange de I’Oncle Charles Alsace and 2018 Athenais De Beru Bourgogne Pinot Gris Rose. Then it was our birthday, then my birthday, my wife’s birthday, our son’s first birthday, etc.

“I end up delivering mostly to people with young children who are sort of homebound or people who work from home. There are a lot of young families for whom it is a big ordeal to get in the car and drive to Lou or Psychic, ”says Brionson, adding that people also really like the personal touch that comes with buying. his wine. “I’m able to send someone a DM and say, ‘Hey, I have Alsatian Riesling and I know you’ve enjoyed it in the past.’ Most of the time people are like, “Yeah, bring it. “

Find small lands on Instagram or by calling (323) 538-2618.

Augmented reality meets gastronomy at AISA dinners Episode 2 Mon, 10 Jan 2022 04:05:44 +0000

Conductor Ace Tan is teaming up with multidisciplinary artist Andy Yang, known for his abstract visual and sound experiments with Singapore as a canvas, for the second installment of AISA (Art Invokes Senses and Appetites). This is a global initiative of the Dom Perignon Society that pairs chefs with creatives from various fields and has seen the pair use augmented reality (AR) to accompany nine dishes with Dom Perignon champagne.

Previously with 1-V: U at The Outpost Hotel Sentosa, Tan reaches the limits of his creativity with a bold menu drawing on his experience in Chinese, Korean and Japanese cuisine.

(Related: 3 Craft Breweries to Watch Out for)

Each dish evokes a sense of modernity and familiarity with a complex blend of flavors and textures. One of the favorites is the gamtae spring roll, a delicate, crisp seaweed wrap stuffed with crab and jicama, and topped with a drop of galangal jelly. Another is the smoked akami tartare with fermented plum dashi jelly, thin slices of Spanish carabinero shrimp, red dates, marigold flowers and red pepper chips.

(Related: Champagne Houses Are Changing The Way They Think And Make Wines)

Tan and Yang interpret the colors of the seasons according to Chinese philosophy and one or two elements based on earth, fire, wood, gold and water. Abstract card-sized landscapes, drawn with Procreate, come to life as diners scan the Artivive app, allowing them to experience the artwork in real time as each dish arrives.

As our dinner progresses, old champagne vintages blend with increasingly complex dishes. The robust Dom Perignon Rose Vintage 2006 and the A4 Yamaguchi Wagyu from Kyoto are a perfect match. Two desserts – torch ginger and lacto white currant sorbet, crispy white mushroom and candied winter melon, as well as the black sesame shiitake tile hiding a quenelle of burdock kombucha sorbet with blackcurrant and black mushroom – were associated with Dom Pérignon Fullness 2 Vintage 2003.

AISA – Episode 2 continues until February 28.

(Related: Welcome 2022 With New Cocktails From These Four Bars)

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Good deals Burgundy | Financial Time Sat, 08 Jan 2022 05:00:37 +0000

The second week of January is traditionally Burgundy Week in London. In the many tastings of the 2020s that would usually be scheduled for next week, the vast majority of wines would come from the Côte d’Or, the “golden slope” of limestone and marl facing east that produces the most revered wines. and the most expensive in Burgundy. .

Yet anyone studying a map will see that the southern end of the Côte d’Or flows directly into the northern end of the Côte Chalonnaise wine region. It owes its name to its main town, Chalon-sur-Saône. To the west, the Côte Chalonnaise vineyards revolve around the villages of Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny. Their wines are generally much, much cheaper than those of the Côte d’Or but the soils and altitude are very similar, and many vineyards enjoy the same type of appearance as most of the Côte d’Or. , facing the rising sun. .

So why are Chalonnaise wines perceived as so markedly inferior? The reasons are more historical and political than geographic. Napoleon was keen to give a strong orientation and character to each of the new departments in which France had been divided after the French Revolution. The Côte d’Or was intended to focus on wine production, while to its immediate south, the Saône-et-Loire, named after its two most famous rivers, was to focus on agriculture, in particularly Charolais beef, and industry. Montceau-les-Mines, to the west of the wine region, was a mining center, an important source of coal throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. The iron ore deposits around Le Creusot, north of Montceau, gave rise to an eruption of large factories during the industrial revolution.

But everything has changed. The ravages of the phylloxera louse towards the end of the 19th century left the vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise, like most of the planet, in a sorry state. Additionally, men returning from fighting in WWI were drawn to work in factories rather than vineyards. (The Côte d’Or had little industry to speak of, so viticulture was much less severely damaged.) As a result, the best wine-growing sites – those on the most difficult to work hillsides – were abandoned in favor of the more fertile plains. Quantity has been privileged over quality and the Côte Chalonnaise has established itself as a source of inexpensive supply. thirsty wine for workers at the local factory.

The Second World War was no more lenient for the winegrowers here. In the excellent and much revised second edition of Inside Burgundy, Jasper Morris points out that the dividing line between occupied France and Vichy crossed the region and at least one citizen was arrested for having visited her garden in Vichy France from her house in the occupied zone.

Yet the Côte Chalonnaise had a tradition of medieval monastic viticulture as venerable as the Côte d’Or. Seen from this historical point of view, it was not until fairly recently, at the end of the 20th century, that the best wine-growing sites were replanted.

Since the vines take years to produce their best wine, it is surely the moment of the second coming of the Côte Chalonnaise. In addition, today there is an ambitious group of producers.

One is the Domaine A&P de Villaine in Bouzeron, just three kilometers from Santenay in the Côte d’Or. It produces some of Burgundy’s most distinctive wines: unique vineyard expressions of Burgundy’s “other” white grape, Aligoté, which has long been considered a poor substitute for Chardonnay because it is more difficult to mature. Yet climate change has revealed just how good fully ripe Aligoté can be, and this estate is among the best.

The “A” in the name (now just Domaine de Villaine) refers to Aubert de Villaine, who has just retired from the head of the most famous wine estate in the Côte d’Or, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti . For many years he and his American wife Pamela lived in Bouzeron but they have now moved. Since 2000, the estate has been run by Aubert’s nephew, Pierre de Benoist, whose parents own Domaine du Nozay in Sancerre.

Aligoté is loved by de Benoist. “As soon as I tasted the wine, I felt similarities with Sauvignon de Sancerre,” he says. It is certainly also rich in acidity and makes an excellent aperitif.

Yet most of the white wines from the Côte Chalonnaise are Chardonnays, just as the reds tend to be Pinot Noirs, just like in the Côte d’Or. During my visit to the region in September, I was particularly seduced by the Chardonnays from the Feuillat-Julliot estate from one vineyard, which happen to be made by an all-female team. The vast majority of the grapes grown here in the pretty east-facing amphitheater of Montagny go to the large Buxy cooperative nearby. However, Françoise Feuillat, daughter of the owner of the famous Mercurey estate Michel Juillot, has grown her own estate from eight to 15 hectares, replacing the red vines with Chardonnay. She and her daughter Camille bottle everything themselves.

The most grandiose estate on the Côte Chalonnaise, in terms of possessions, is the historic Domaine Thenard de Givry, which enjoys the enviable position of being the second largest owner of the fabulously expensive Côte d ‘white wine vineyard. However, Le Montrachet, where it owns nearly two entire hectares. Even billionaire entrepreneur François Pinault only managed to acquire 0.04 ha of Le Montrachet vines. Dom Thenard and Pinault both produce Le Montrachet, along with around fifteen other vineyard owners in this famous vineyard. Pinault’s is available in such small quantities that it is for personal use only.

The Côte Chalonnaise also produces beautiful reds. Those to watch are those made by Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko in the spectacular new four-storey gravity-fed winery of the restored Cistercian estate of Cellier aux Moines on a steep slope overlooking Givry, which must be one of the best vineyards in the region. . Locations. This is just one property where the young vines produce better quality wine than the older vines as the previous owners planted poor quality Pinot Noir clones.

In most wine-growing regions, only the best vineyards obtain the title of Premier Cru, or premier cru. But in Côte Chalonnaise, undoubtedly too many are designated as such. It is perhaps the desire to clearly indicate which are the best sites that has propelled what one might call a galloping inflation of Premiers Crus in the Côte Chalonnaise. For example, nearly 60 percent of the vineyards in Montagny are classified as Premier Cru, which increases their credibility. Further north, at Rully and Givry, the proportions (less than a quarter) are perhaps more useful.

It is truly a region in transition but, as Anne-Cécile Lumpp, daughter of the winegrower François Lumpp in Givry, has assured me when exhibiting their latest vintage, the Côte Chalonnaise is on the rise.

  • Domaine Belleville, Rully

  • Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry

  • Domaine Dureuil-Janthial, Rully

  • Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey

  • Domaine de la Folie, Rully

  • P&M Jacqueson, Rully

  • Domaine Claudie Jobard, Rully

  • Domaine Feuillat-Juillot, Montagny

  • Domaine Bruno Lorenzon, Mercurey

  • Domaine François Lumpp, Givry

  • Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, Givry

  • Domaine Ragot, Givry

  • Domaine Suremain, Mercurey

  • Domaine A&P de Villaine, Bouzeron

Tasting notes on the purple pages of More resellers of

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Ohio’s Donniella Winchell named to ‘Most Inspirational People’ List in Wine Industry Thu, 06 Jan 2022 14:30:00 +0000

CLEVELAND, Ohio – Donniella Winchell, executive director of the Ohio Wine Producers Association, is one of 10 people across the country honored for their commitment to the wine industry.

Wine Industry Advisor – an online publication covering the wine industry – has included Winchell on its list of “most inspiring people”. The compilation includes winery owners, journalist, winemaker, educators and others.

When Winchell found out, she felt honored especially when she saw the other recipients, industry veterans.

“I saw the list and thought, ‘!

The other winners, she said, are “people whose resumes are – wow – impressive,” said Winchell, who doesn’t know who named her.

Winchell – based in Northeast Ohio – has been a tireless and passionate supporter of Ohio wine and wineries for more than 40 years, lobbying for an industry that has grown dramatically. When Winchell became executive director of the association in 1978, the state had 13 wineries. Today, nearly 400 exist.

The flagship event is the annual Vintage Ohio, the large-scale tasting in Kirtland. Winchell has coordinated Vintage Ohio since its inception in 1978. She thanks the support staff over the years who have helped.

Associated coverage: Vintage Ohio turns 25: how the wine festival grew

“It’s really a huge team effort,” she said.

“We started Vintage as a way to introduce wines to people,” she said. “There were over 90 wine festivals in Ohio last year. When we started Vintage, we were alone. We created Vintage to be a tool to build the industry – not an event to sell wine – but a tool to build the industry. To expose people to wine, take people to cellars, work with the media and take the money we need and put it back into other things. So we are certainly, in part, guided by events. But Vintage is a fairly well-oiled machine.

A second Vintage Ohio downstate was added three years ago, and Winchell recently signed a deal for an indoor event at Bowling Green this summer.

Winchell has served on several tourism boards and economic development boards and is an assistant professor at Kent State-Ashtabula, teaching courses related to marketing and the wine industry. In addition to raising the industry flag and hosting events, Winchell has fought diligently to change the ingrained perception that Ohioans have of local wines.

“Over time, Ohio wines have come to be regarded as sweet wines in jelly jars,” she said. “It’s very hard to break that mold when focusing on festivals and events when (most) of the population is drinking sweet wine. “

This means that over the past few years Winchell has focused marketing on “realizing that we can make truly exceptional cool climate whites”.

This translates into adding upscale dining and reaching out to “affinity partners” like coffee shops and craft breweries, where some consumer overlap could be exploited.

Winchell’s goal for the near future is to “make people realize that the sophistication of certain Ohio wines is quite exceptional.”

“If we can get a serious Starbucks consumer into an Ohio wine experience, because they’re looking for that minimum of sophistication, we’re going to try and do that stuff,” she said.

So expect smaller, focused groups where Winchell sees an opportunity to open the minds of aspiring wine lovers to tastes like Ohio Gewurztraminer, Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, unoaked Chardonnay and ‘other grape varieties.

For the first time in 2021, Wine Industry Advisor opened the submission process to the entire industry. The winners were selected from over 100 nominees, the common denominator being their impact on American wine culture.

Other recipients

Marty club, co-owner of L’Ecole N˚41 in Walla Walla, Washington.

Julia coney, a leading wine educator and black voice, initiating conversations about breed in the industry.

• Journalist Cathy Huyghe, CEO of Enolytics, a wine business intelligence company, and columnist Forbes.

Christa-lee and Darrien McWatters from the Time family of wines, the multigenerational winery of British Columbia, Canada.

Dennis murphy of Caprio Cellars, committed to 100% estate-grown wines in Walla Walla, Washington.

• Spring Mountain Vineyard’s Ron Rosenbrand, who helped firefighters save historic buildings during the California wildfires.

Alex ryan, CEO of Duckhorn Portfolio.

Ali Smith story, owner of Smith Story Wine Cellars in California and Instagram influencer.

Tony wolf, winegrower, popularizer and educator in Virginia.

I am on cleveland.comlife and culture team and cover topics related to food, beer, wine and sport. If you want to see my stories, here is a directory on Bill Wills from WTAM-1100 and I talk about food and drink usually at 8:20 am on Thursday mornings. Twitter: @ mbona30.

Kick up the weekend and sign up for’s weekly “In the CLE” newsletter, your essential guide to the best things to do in Greater Cleveland. It’ll arrive in your inbox on Friday morning – an exclusive to-do list, focusing on the best weekend fun. Restaurants, music, movies, the performing arts, family entertainment and more. Simply click here to subscribe. All newsletters are free.

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11 nostalgic general stores scattered across upstate New York Tue, 04 Jan 2022 19:05:01 +0000

In the small communities where we grew up the general store, or the five-and-dime store, was the center of all the action. Everyone did their shopping there. They stocked everything mom and dad needed. And the kids loved them for the penny candy! Here are 11 stores we think you should put on your radar. The general stores and the five and ten cent stores still exist! Check out our list and enjoy a journey back to your youth.

11 Vintage Upstate general stores and Five and Dime stores

We all have memories of those great little five-penny stores and general stores from our youth. They were the heart of our communities. They sold pretty much everything, you could get a really good meal at most of them, and of course the highlight of the show was always the rows of penny candy. Upstate still has a lot of these stores around (some of them are 100, 150, 170 years old!). Here’s a list to start your journey back to the general stores of your youth. They are all great!

11 little Catskill mountain towns we love

Among the different regions of upstate New York, we all have our favorites. The Finger Lakes, Mohawk Valley, Western New York, Adirondacks, Hudson Valley, etc. But let’s face it, it’s hard not to fall in love with the Catskills. Here is a list of some of our favorite little towns in the Catskills. While all the points on the map of this region are special, we love them for their history, beauty, entertainment, and places of interest.

35 Reasons Everyone Loves the Finger Lakes

There are several large “destination pockets” in the area we call Upstate New York. Whether it is the historic mansions along the Hudson Valley, the small ski towns of the Catskills, the majesty of the Adirondacks, the diverse history of central New York or the magnificent region shrouded in mist from Niagara to l ‘Where is. And then there are the Finger Lakes! These 11 “finger-shaped” lakes stretch (roughly) just west of Interstate 81 to the Genesee Valley in western New York. This area is one of the state’s major playgrounds.

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Vintage Cookbook Features a Dish from Mountain View’s Gemello Winery | News Sun, 02 Jan 2022 16:40:57 +0000

The great culinary specialties often bear the name of places of origin. How many do you recognize?

Niçoise salad, risotto alla Milanese, chicken Kiev, Tunisian tagine, Florentine eggs, lacquered duck, Lyonnaise potatoes, Pad Thai, Riga eggs, ragù bolognese, Turkish delight, Mountain View veal with eggplant. (Note: not all are equally famous.)

The advertising story of this latter dish involves national and state history, as well as that of Mountain View’s pioneer vineyard in the 20th century. Gemello Winery operated El Camino Real from the 1930s to the 1980s; a district now bears his name.

First, a bit of historical background.

A wine industry in the United States flourished in the 19th and early 20th centuries, but withered after the 18th Constitutional Amendment of 1919 authorized the federal “ban” on alcoholic beverages. Prohibition was an international trend; other countries have tried it, including Russia, Finland, Norway and Canada. All then repealed it, as the United States did at the end of 1933. The California wine industry then began a slow revival and it was not until 1990 that the United States passed its record number of vineyards before Prohibition.

In 1938, recognizing the agricultural importance of wines, California launched a Wine Advisory Council, which worked with an industry group, the Wine Institute, to promote California products. The board created educational materials, initially to counter the prohibitionist rhetoric that wine was just a source of alcohol to get drunk. Long experience in places like Mediterranean Europe has shown that wine can be a healthy part of everyday life, supplementing and improving food. It is not just coincidence that so many influential Californian winemakers have carried names like Bargetto, Franzia, Gallo, Latour, Martini, Masson, Mirassou, Mondavi, Nichelini, Parducci, Pedroncelli and Sebastiani.

In this tradition and in anticipation of the end of Prohibition, in 1933, Italian immigrant John Gemello (1882-1981) opened a winery on 31 acres off El Camino Real, where his family grew fruits and vegetables. vegetables. In the late 1950s, Gemello focused on premium cork-stopper wines; thereafter, major Californian wine books regularly mentioned the winery. In 1983, John’s granddaughter, Sandy Gemello Obester, took over; she and her husband Paul quickly consolidated Gemello with their own Obester vineyard in Half Moon Bay. In 2002 Obester was sold, evolving to La Nebbia.

Gemello Winery has contributed recipes to a series of winemaker cookbooks published by the Wine Advisory Board. Mountain View veal with eggplant appeared in 1965’s “Adventures in Wine Cookery by California Winemakers”.

The dish is frying the veal cutlets and the breaded eggplant slices separately. These are then assembled in a baking dish, a cutlet on each piece of eggplant and a slice of cheese between; surrounded by a mixture of sour cream, tomato sauce and white wine; cooked until tender; and sprinkled with flaked almonds.

Many post-Prohibition California wines were dessert types and fortified sherry-style. So-called table or table wines, typical today, did not dominate volume sales until the end of the 1960s. This story influenced the 1965 cookbook, whose recipes (those of Gemello included ) often specify dessert wines or commercial genres such as California Sauterne. The cookbook also testifies to the greater use at the time of certain ingredients: veal, lamb, offal, a lot of sour cream. But the recipes are diverse; I found great and timeless cooking ideas there. As is the case with many older cookbooks.

For Mountain View’s Complete Dish Recipes and others, used book sellers (including offer inexpensive spiral-bound and pocket-sized copies of “Adventures in Wine Cookery by California Winemakers” 1965. My information on the Gemello family and their winery comes from Mario Gemello’s memoir on the Bennion Trust website

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Best of 2021: 12 Professional Plano Features Tue, 28 Dec 2021 13:30:00 +0000 One of the founding clients of the Maverick Awards is SMU. (Community impact newspaper staff)

Here is an overview of the business features that appeared in the Plano edition of Community impact journal in 2021.


Plano Closet Revival resale store offers designer trends at affordable prices

The resale store offers a wide variety of designer clothing and accessories for women as well as high-end designer items.


Plano-Based Sports Memorabilia Company Maverick Awards Dominates Industry

The company’s bread and butter offerings are still its bespoke college lettering jackets, but owner Don Giddens said he’s slowly added more products, including custom-framed awards, jerseys and diplomas. ; blankets; watches; graduation stoles; and four-year rings.


Supreme Dream Photography in Plano turns to work of passion in the midst of a pandemic

After two decades as a photographer and nearly 13 years as the owner of Supreme Dream Photography in downtown Plano, Kendrix Wesley had grown her clientele for weddings, shoots and other studio photography work. and outdoors. At the start of the pandemic, much of that work was put on hold and he was forced to revolve his business.


Tan Artistry offers a healthy, sunless alternative to airbrush tanning

Kristin Cole became a qualified esthetician 15 years ago. She opened a facial care business in North Dallas in 2010. Six years ago, while looking for something new to offer her clients, she added airbrush tanning to her list. of services and discovered a new passion.


Owners of elephant trunk moving supplies think outside the box in Plano

Elephant Trunk Moving Supplies offers packages to meet a variety of moving needs. They start with enough containers for a one bedroom move ($ 80 for two weeks) and go up from there.


Plano Gals on and off the Green boutique specializes in trendy golf clothing for women

Jackie Sorrenti opened Gals on and off the Green in 2004 in Pittsburgh, PA, where she and her husband lived. For the next five years, she continued to work in IT and manage the golf clothing store. In 2009 she quit her IT job and in 2014 opened a second store in Plano.


Plano’s Blue Fig International Market offers groceries from around the world

Customers of the International Blue Fig Market visit not only to shop for everyday groceries, but also to remember. The store’s inventory is made up of items most commonly found in other countries, from Turkey to Russia to Pakistan.


North Texas Escape Rooms offers a family atmosphere with a variety of puzzles to decipher

Plano’s location offers six unique rooms of varying difficulty. All rooms are private, so other than the game master, groups are on their own when trying to put together the clues needed to win the game.


Personal hygiene company Soap Hope employs disabled adults in Plano

Profits from Soap Hope help fund programs My Possibilities offers for adults with disabilities such as Down syndrome, autism, Asperger’s syndrome and more, Mageors said. While Soap Hope does most of its sales online, the company is looking to expand its customer base in person through a Plano showroom that opened in fall 2020.


Dallas Vintage Shop carries millions of authentic and unique costume items in Plano

While many people just play dress up around Halloween, Jerry Purvis makes costumes year round for his Plano business, Dallas Vintage Shop. After starting out as a thrift store in 2000, Purvis said he discovered there was a need for quality costumes in Plano.


Long-running Plano store The Soccer Corner offers accessories and clothing for all ages

Owner Don Willard founded The Soccer Corner in 2002 when he purchased the store’s current location in the West Park Village development from his father, who had operated Plano Sports Center there since 1972. Willard eventually added several more locations. The Soccer Corner, first in Arlington and then three more in and around Austin.


Corner Wines: husband and wife bond through wine in Plano

Michael Martin and Jamie Heise, husband and wife and co-owners of Corner Wines in Plano, said traveling, trying new dishes and connecting with people is what they love to do.

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6 cities under the radar to visit in the Hudson Valley Sun, 26 Dec 2021 21:07:32 +0000

The easy-going highways and scenic back roads of the Hudson Valley have practically become destinations in themselves. Whether it’s covered in wildflowers in the summer or blazing gold and auburn in the fall, it’s hard to find a town in the region that isn’t worth stopping by. But most travelers, especially those from New York City, rarely venture north of the cities of Kingston and Hudson. Those who don’t are missing out on some of the coolest parts, including growing, under-the-radar towns and villages in the upstate.

The Hudson Valley covers 10 counties and stretches from Yonkers in the south to Albany in the north. The Lower Hudson Valley consists of the counties of Rockland and Westchester. Mid-Hudson Valley, New York’s most popular weekend part, with easy access along the commuter train, includes Ulster, Dutchess, Orange and Putnam counties. Many guides and publications focus on these two sections of the Hudson Valley; some even consider them to be the all valley.

As a resident of the Upper Hudson Valley for 25 years, I’d like to put this misconception to bed and show you some of the best reasons to visit.

The often overlooked Upper Hudson Valley takes the hilly landscapes of its southern sisters and takes them up a few notches. Within the borders of Greene, Columbia, Rensselaer and Albany counties you will find the Catskill and Taconic mountain ranges, the beginnings of the Erie and Champlain canals, miles of wild eastern deciduous forest and spectacular scenery. that frame the Hudson River – the same vistas that inspired the Hudson River School of Painting. It is also home to fantastic outdoor recreation, a thriving food scene, and a number of unique cultural venues.

Catskill Mountains near Phenicia (Photo credit: Jose F. Donneys /

1. Phenicia

Ulster County

A small hamlet in the city of Shandaken, Phenicia is located in a “triangle” formed by the bases of Mount Tremper, Romer Mountain and Sheridan Mountain. But don’t be fooled by its small size. Phenicia is teeming with sights and activities, including summer music and art festivals, within a radius of less than 1 square mile.

The village offers several scenic hikes, ranging from simple walks to difficult climbs. The best are found on Mount Tremper and Mount Tobias. During warmer seasons, go fishing or tubing on Esopus Creek, or hit the pedals on a Rail Explorers tour.

In the small town center, catch a show at the Phenicia Playhouse open year-round. You can also visit a handful of shops and galleries, and stop for lunch or dinner. The adorable Phenicia Diner gets nothing but praise, but it’s often crowded with tourists. I prefer the slower pace of Danielle’s Pizza Shop, a staple in an area where it’s hard to find a good pie. Follow up with a pint at Woodstock Brewing or dessert at Maeve’s Place artisan bakery.

Incredible foliage in upstate New York.  Morning sunlight spreads over the golden foliage.
mervas /

2. Windham

Greene County

You may have heard of Windham Mountain, one of the upstate’s premier ski and snowboard destinations, with 1,600 feet of vertical drop on more than a dozen trails. In summer, the resort opens its 18-hole golf course and adrenaline-pumping downhill cycle paths.

But that’s not all there is to do in this historic town, which dates back to 1798. Hike, bike or cross-country ski in Elm Ridge Wild Forest; the lower trails are the easiest. In the city center, between the independent boutiques on Main Street, stop at Windham Fine Arts to browse the gallery or purchase original works of art for your home. You can also book an organic facial treatment at Windham Spa.

Windham has several restaurants to choose from for lunch and dinner. My picks: fresh, simple foods at Windham Local and wine-focused meals at Ze Windham Wine Bar. The latter offers a cleverly curated list of 100 international wines, light bites and platters of cheeses and cold meats. During the warmer months, sample your selections in the lantern-lit sommelier’s secret garden.

3. Athens

Greene County

Once a powerhouse for shipbuilding, brick making, and ice harvesting (a popular occupation in the pre-chilling of the Hudson Valley), Athens overlooks the west bank of the Hudson River. HG Wells’ 2005 film adaptation War of the Worlds used a few places in town, including the famous ferry scene, touring on the Hudson.

Filled with ancient Victorians, brown stones and Italian-style architecture, Athens is now home to an eclectic community. Artists, artisans and small business owners are behind the city’s resurgence. Visit the Athens Cultural Center, an exhibition and performance space, which also offers live lessons, on Second Street. A short walk away on Second and Water streets are a cluster of shops and restaurants. Do not miss Bonfiglio & Bread, supplier of excellent pastries.

Athens Riverfront Park is a great place for a picnic or just to relax with a view of the Hudson. In summer, visit the Second Empire-style Hudson Lighthouse in Athens or visit the annual street fair. Unwind with one of dozens of beers on tap, along with light snacks and sandwiches, at the rustic-chic Crossroads Brewing Company.

Installation by Nick Cave made of old toys presented by the Jack Shainman Gallery in New York at the 2013 Armory Show.
Installation at the Jack Shainman Gallery (Photo credit: lev radin /

4. Kindergarten crochet

Columbia County

Cultured Kinderhook is one of the oldest towns in the Hudson Valley, founded by Dutch settlers in the early 1600s. Remnants of its long history have been left in an impressive array of historic buildings, including a farmhouse Netherlands where notorious traitor Benedict Arnold took refuge while recovering from injuries sustained during the War of Independence.

Begin with a walk along the Albany Hudson Electric Trail, which is part of the new, fully accessible 750-mile Empire State Trail. Near the start of the trail in the village, take a break to appreciate the Colored People’s Cemetery, where about 500 free blacks and slaves are buried – on just a quarter of an acre of land.

Plan to spend a few hours at the huge The School | Jack Shainman Gallery. Located in a converted elementary school, this 30,000 square foot gallery is one of the best places in New York City – including the city itself – to admire provocative contemporary art. Then take a stroll down the street for a shopping and sipping spree, including the brand new Kinderhook Knitting Mill. It houses a specialty cafe and retail store, home goods store, soda counter, perfumer and wine store. Enjoy lunch at The Aviary, the new Southeast Asian restaurant from Manhattan chef Hannah Wong.

Pro tip: The Upper Hudson Valley offers such a variety of outdoor recreation and cultural stops that you’ll want to pack for all eventualities. Bring sturdy walking shoes, hiking boots if you plan to hike the trails, and casual dress for dinner. Also, pack lots of diapers. Daytime temperatures can be 30 degrees warmer than nighttime temperatures, and you’ll appreciate the ability to warm up or cool off as needed.

5. Philmont

Columbia County

On the way to Philmont, you might be wondering what there could be to see and do in this quiet old railway town. Then you turn onto Main Street. Nestled in its handful of shops and cafes is one of the most sophisticated restaurants you will find in the area. Local 111, in a converted gas station, draws diners from near and far to sample farm-to-table cuisine that showcases the rich bounty of the Hudson Valley.

As the restaurant is only open for dinner, plan your activities around it. Start your visit with another exciting surprise: the High Falls Conservation Area, where an easy hiking trail, through hemlock shrouded ravines, stops at a spectacular 150-foot waterfall. The lower creek side trail also has mini falls. Or for a more meditative experience, walk the curved lines of the Philmont Maze, a 42-foot maze on Maple Avenue, on Village Green. It is said that walking through its stone-lined paths encourages deep contemplation.

Fancy an overnight stay where you can enjoy wine and sunsets on Summit Lake? Gather a group of friends and book the Vanderbilt Lakeside, a historic railroad house reimagined as a boutique inn, with Manhattan-club-meets-mountainside-lodge decor.

The Experimental Center for Media and Performing Arts at the Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute.
Center for Experimental Media and the Performing Arts (Photo credit: Jay Yuan /

6. Troy

Rensselaer County

Not a town but a town of 50,000 and the county seat of Rensselaer, Troy is urban energy and convenience in an easy-to-navigate package. It has long housed a variety of minority and historically disadvantaged communities. With the guidance of a new group of entrepreneurs, city officials and artists, the city is undertaking various revitalization efforts.

There’s a reason movies like Age of innocence and the new HBO series Golden age were filmed in Troy: its density of well-preserved Victorian architecture offers a lot of feast for the eyes, especially on and around River Street.

Catch a concert at Troy Savings Bank Music Hall, renowned for both its historic architecture and acoustics. Visit the Capital Region Center for the Arts for an exhibition of local works. Make your way to the Troy Waterfront Farmers Market, one of the largest and oldest in the area, or take the Uncle Sam’s bike path along the riverside.

Downtown, shop for vintage clothing, specialty and imported foods, New Age books and accessories, household items, jewelry, stationery and more. When it’s time for dinner, you’ll find over 20 individual options representing a range of cooking styles, as well as the new River Street Market, an eclectic dining hall. My top picks: Muza for Polish and German favorites like pierogi and schnitzel, and Tara Kitchen for memorable Moroccan cuisine. Prefer not to limit your options? Book a Taste of Troy Food Tour, which blends city history with local food at multiple stops throughout the city.

To top it off, a glass of wine at Lucas Confectionary or several artisanal IPAs, sour et ales at Brown’s Brewing.

Pro tip: On-street parking and public lots are plentiful in most of these cities. The exception is Troy. Trying to find on-street parking can be a headache here, so locate a garage, public lot, or metered street ahead of time.

You can find more information about upstate New York in these TravelAwaits articles:

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